In Trujillo, Peru, bright yellow taxis are everywhere. 2006.10.14

Jeffrey Maxwell

Geography

Peru is divided into three basic regions, the costa (coast), the sierra (Andes Mountains) and the selva (Amazon Basin).  Such diversity in geography, climates, and elevations make Peru an exciting place to visit, but these conditions can also make travel a challenge, or at least a reason to plan ahead.

The Coast is a strip of desert between the Pacific Ocean and the Andes Mountains.  Most of the major cities of Peru are in the coastal area.  Getting up and down the coast is not too much of a problem, because the country's best highway, part of the Pan-American Highway, runs the entire length of the country. 

The Andes are what draw a lot of folks from all over the world to Peru.  Cuzco and Machu Picchu being the biggests attractions, many adventurers also come to climb the peaks of the Andes Mountains and visit the crystal clear lakes atop.  Lake Titicaca is also a place of interest as the highest navigable lake in the world.  Travelers to the Andes Highlands should plan a free day once they arrive to get acclamated to the high altitude before exerting a lot of physical effort.  The fastest way to get to the mountains is by air, but the fast change in altitude can be troublesome for some who are not use to it.

The Amazon (covering 60 percent of Peru) is the larger, yet less populated and less explored area of Peru.  Snow melting from the Andes peaks and rainwater draining from the eastern slope have resulted in a vast river system that feeds the jungle and leads to the Amazon River, which starts in Peru at Iquitos.  Travel in the Amazon Basin by boat can be an interesting experience, if one has the time.  But air travel is the faster, somewhat more reliable method of travel.  Additional areas of interest can be reached by bus within a few hours of an airport.

Air Travel

The only practical way to travel within Peru is by air.  Most cities tourists would want to visit have an airport, or there is an airport within an hour or two away.  One thing travelers should keep in mind is that flight schedules are regularly delayed because of fog, storms, or other weather in Peru.  Most of the airtravel goes through Lima.  Once the airlines are behind schedule due to fog in Lima in the morning, which is not unusual, then flight schedules will be behind in all parts of the nation for the entire day.  So travelers must plan for time to hurry up and wait. 

December 17, 2006, presented a good example of possible delays in Peru, when 15 flights in Cuzco were cancelled or delayed, stranding more than 2000 tourists, due to a rain storm that lasted 12 hours.  About the same number of tourists were affected who were trying to get to Cuzco from other parts of Peru.  Even local soccer finals were affected by the delays, as Ciencano, the soccer team from Cuzco, had to travel to Arequipa by bus.

When flying in Peru, all passengers must pay an airport tax before boarding a flight that departs from a Peruvian airport.  Once travelers have picked up their tickets and boarding passes and checked their baggage, the next step is to pay the tax.  Travelers will not be allowed on the plane until this has been paid, so they must not forget this important step.  The only time one will not have to pay the tax is if the flight is on American Airlines, which generally charges the airport tax at the time the ticket is purchased -- even if purchased online from the passenger's home country months in advance.  This is a matter of convenience so their passengers can skip this step.  However, travelers arriving on an American Airlines flight in Lima, and leaving on a Peruvian airline for in-country travel, should expect to pay the tax in the airport if the ticket wasn't purchased through American. 

Bus Travel

Buses can be a good way to get around the Lima metropolitan area, but most tourists prefer to take taxis to travel within the city.  Many locals take the bus to travel across the country, because it is cheaper.  But it is very time consuming.  The bus is an acceptible way to run up the coast to Trujillo, or down to Ica.  But it is not useful for seeing the country -- most bus rides of any length are overnight, the windows are not easy to see out, and bus lines require passengers to keep the curtains closed at night so lights won't bother passengers trying to sleep. 

The bus is not recommended for tourists who are traveling accross the mountains -- it is not worth the "savings."  Commercial bus drivers are under a lot of pressure to meet time schedules -- that makes for dangerous travel.  One North American described his trip over the Andes Mountains as the longest tires-squeeling-on-pavement roller-coaster ride he had ever experienced, but he only threw up twice. 

News agencies around the world reported the December 5, 2006, crash in the Andes Mountains in Southern Peru that killed approximately 45 and injured the only two people who survived.  It is likely that excessive speed was the cause according to reports.  This is just another of numerous accidents with commercial bus lines that kill hundreds of people in Peru each year.  Peru's federal government has called for measures to improve bus safety and reduce driver fatigue, but strikes by bus drivers against some of those measures are hampering any efforts to stop bus deaths in Peru.

Boat Travel

The primary mode of transportation in the rainforest is on the rivers by boat.  Any traveler who wants to see the "real" jungle will have river travel on the itenerary.  Many excursions are available from Iquitos with guides who are wildlife experts to point out the sights.  Travelers who are visiting the jungle for the first time should stick with the guided tours.  Only experienced travelers who speak good Spanish (or Portuguese if going on to Brazil) should attempt to see the remote parts of the Amazon Rainforest on their own. 

Tourists should be aware of the fact that many boats in the Amazon Basin are not kept in good condition.  So it is important to keep an eye on river condition forecasts before traveling on the water -- especially in the rainy season December through April.  A level orange or red river advisory means that the rain levels have been high and currents can be swift. 

The river condition forecasts did not prevent the accident that happened on Friday, February 29, 2008, when the Santa Elena carrying 40 passengers and a load of wood capsized and sank in the Rio Tapiche in the Loredo District of Peru.  While 25 passengers were rescued, officials believe that some of the 15 passengers who are missing might have been trapped inside the vessel.  Travelers must realize that their own safety is their own responsibility, and they need to pay attention to the river forecasts when making decisions about river boat travel.

Taxis and Mototaxis

Every major city in Peru has taxis.  Passengers must always negotiate the price of a taxi or mototaxi ride with the driver before entering the vehicle.  This is very important, because if driver and passenger are not settled on the price, the passenger might find him or herself paying much more than necessary for the ride.

In Lima, taxi drivers are constantly jockying to be in a position to get more fares.  One thing that North Americans will notice is the size of the taxis: they are all small.  However, a big person should not hesitate to wave by a sub-compact taxi in favor of a compact or midsized car.  One will be along shortly. 

One might have to walk to a major street to get a taxi if it is very late at night.  Unless they absolutely have to, people do not ride in a taxi at night if they are alone.  There is safety in numbers.  Most taxistas are not going to be a problem, but tourists have been robbed at night by taxi drivers who would take their money and leave them just anywhere.  It doesn't happen much in the daytime. 

When riding in a taxi, passengers should lock the doors.  It is a good idea to put bags, purses, backpacks and other possessions in the trunk.  Cameras, cell phones, and other electronic devices should not be placed where pedestrians can see them.  It has happened many times that a pedestrian has reached into the window of a taxi and stolen items from passengers.

Trujillo has many, many taxis that are all painted yellow.  In Cusco, taxis come in every size, shape and color.  In Iquitos and Tarapoto, automobile taxis are available mostly for long rides, but the mototaxi is the most common mode of public transportation.  A mototaxi looks like a ricksha with a motorcycle welded onto the front of it and can seem tipsy in the hills and rutts of a jungle city street.