Tours and Excursions

The Hardangervidda plateau, near the town of Geilo , is a land of contrasts – a drive through this part of the country reveals densely forested hillsides reflected in deep blue lakes, and narrow fjords stretching far inland with their steep sides offering breath-taking views of the valleys far below.   Then, on gaining altitude, the landscape changes to treeless expanses of tundra-like vegetation, and everywhere the evidence of the ice ages that carved out this region thousands of years ago is obvious.   Glaciers still inch their way down the mountainsides, and even in the height of summer, large patches of snow, unmelted since the winter, dot the landscape.   This is a land of tiny, beautiful wildflowers and berries, of juniper and dwarf willow, and reindeer, moose and birds of prey.   The weather too is inconsistent – intensely hot and sunny periods suddenly give way to completely overcast and misty skies, and the feeling that the rain is never far away. 

This is what it can be like, in the first week of August.   Stay at the Raklidekkan Lodge, a comfortable, wooden building, for six days’ walking on the plateau.   Situated in a forest clearing, at a height of about 900m, it is an ideal place to start exploring the many tracks through the forest.   This is sheep-farming country, and Ivar Slettemoen, the owner of the lodge and the leader of the walking tours, is himself a sheep-farmer, as well as a teacher of English, a local historian and ski-instructor. 

Under his guidance, you’ll set out each day to walk on the plateau.   Visit his summer pastures in a valley called Vedalen, a remote place with a trout-filled lake, surrounded by the holdings of other sheep farmers.   The peace and silence are remarkable, broken only by the sound of sheep bells in the pastures.   Another day, walk to the foot of Hallingskarvet, a snow-capped mountain ridge which rises from the plateau and dominates the skyline towards the north and west.   Trek with ease along the tracks, which in winter would be buried in snow up to one metre thick, but in summer are now carpeted with wildflowers. 

A coach trip can take you further west to the Vöringfoss Waterfall, which plunges about 280m into a narrow gorge.   Further along, stop for tea at Eidfjord, a town situated on the Hardangerfjord, and from there, drive up through a mountain tunnel to Kjåsen, a farm situated at a height of 530m, overlooking the fjord.   This farm has been constantly occupied since the year 1300.   Although the weather can be misty, the views over the fjord on a fine day are spectacular. 

Other days’ walking will give you the opportunity to see traditional wooden Norwegian houses, with their curious grass-covered roofs; to learn how to walk across snow-fields without slipping (easier said than done) and to identify the many unusual wild flowers and berries all round you. 

This was a trip well worth taking, if only for the beauty of the landscape and the variety of scenery to be found in a relatively small area.