National Museum

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Monaco’s public museums tend to reflect the passions of its royalty but this one showcases a commoner’s collection and it is fascinating idiosyncratic and not just a little creepy. A villa designed by Charles Garnier (who also designed the Paris and Monte Carlo opera houses) is home to thousands of dolls including animated wind-up toys made in 19th-century Paris. It’s imperative that you time your visit with one of the automaton shows (times vary with the season—call in advance). The guard winds up a number of performing toys and dolls: monkeys that smoke magicians who make their own heads disappear circus performers. It is stunning (and scary) to see the absolute natural smoothness of their movements—and the attention to subtle details: Their chests heave with breath. (It’s not a place you’d want to be locked into at night.) Be sure to make it to the second floor to see the creche depicting the scene if Christ had been born in an 18th-century Neapolitan village: There are more than 200 villagers in the diorama each unique. In Monte Carlo.
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