Postcard from Ravenna Travel Guide

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Down the Adriatic coast from Ravenna are a series of small towns.  These are the 'Lidi' or resort towns where Italians flock in summer.  Some, like Milano Maritimo are very trendy indeed, and some, like Rimini, used to be the 'in' place, but have become overcrowded and expensive.  Cesenatica is between the two, it lives for the tourist Euro, but seeks to be quaint rather than trendy.  This is a port designed by Leonardo da Vinci, the original plan drawn by the great master of ideas still exists.  Unfortunately, the sea moved outwards, and the defensive tower he planned and the canals are rather more inland, so much for global warming, only 500 years ago, the seas were so much higher in the Adriatic.  Nevertheless, it remains an interesting town with a museum of fishing.  This is the traditional type of fishing from boats with colourful sails that look as if they should have been part of the 1000 ships that invaded Troy....

The walks along the canals are uniquely picturesque, all the fishermen's cottages have become restaurants, rather expensive restaurants, but they serve some of the best fish dishes in the province according to reliable local sources.  The boats are truely worth the visit.

Rimini is too big for it's size.  It has too many, too expensive shops, many restaurants and hotels, which in September were mostly closed.  It feels expensive, but the shops selling Miu Miu handbags at 900 euro are next door to tacky souvenir shops run by Indians selling substandard stuff made in Bombay.  The place looks on the way down.  The beach is broad and the sand clean, but it is edged beyond the pines, and here the pines have been mostly eaten away by hotels, the hotels crowd the sky and cut the sun.  This is going the way of Benidorm, an endless vista of skyscrapers.  Indeed this coastline is being taken over by the skyscrapers, the beach is wide and continuous and you could probably walk from Ravenna to Rimini without leaving it save to cross the canals at Cesenatica, but the hotels and bagni would follow your every step.  At Ravenna, you would come out at Punta Marina, some 7 kilometers east of the city of Ravenna today, this is another beach town with endless bagni with sometimes inspired names like 'Kiribati' or just 'bagno Gianni', but it is underdeveloped and very clean, it still has its stands of beach lining pines and no outstanding skyscrapers.  This is what all the coast must have looked like in the 1950s.  I could live here happily.

Part or or all of this text stems from the original article at: I wrote it about a year ago

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