You may remember Chapter 18 of Umberto Eco’s Foucault’s Pendulum, where Colonel Ardenti enthuses about Provins: "Have you ever been to Provins? A magic place: you can feel it even today. Go there. A Magic place, still redolent of secrets. In the eleventh century it was the seat of the Compte de Champagne, a free zone, where the central government couldn’t come snooping. The Templars were at home there; even today a street is named after them. There were churches, palaces, a castle overlooking the whole plain. And a lot of money, merchants doing business, fairs, confusion, where it was easy to pass unnoticed. But most important, something that has been there since prehistoric times: tunnels. A network of tunnels – real catacombs – extends beneath the hill." (Foucault’s Pendulum, p 125.)

Now, even if you are not lloking for a conspiracy or are a bug fan of Eco, Provins is a nice daytrip. Provins at one time during the Middle Ages was the most prosperous city in France after Paris and Rouen because of its trade fairs, called the "foires de Champagne". The Count of Champagne was, therefore, one of the most powerful men in the kingdom.

The main sights in town are the old fortifications, the great Tour de César, "templar-style" with central tower and four small spires on its corners, the "tour cantonneé de quatre tourelles", the Grange aux Dimes (tithe-barn) and, if you are feeling adventurous, you might try and explore the maze of underground tunnels, so dear to Eco’s Colonel Ardenti.