Grote Markt District (Lower Area)

At the heart of the city, this is where you’ll find the finest square and some of the finest buildings in Brussels. On the square is the 16th-century Maison du Roi (Broodhuis) now known as the Manneken-Pis Museum named for the country’s small 17th-century bronze statue of a boy relieving himself in the classic fountain pose. The Manneken-Pis Fountain itself is regarded by the Belgians with the reverence usually reserved for religious icons—there are some 100 outfits for the statue on display at the museum and there is considerable ceremony attached to changing the boy’s clothes. (During our last visit we found a visit to the fountain reminiscent of going to the cathedral at Lourdes. Instead of shops with statues of the holy family there are shops filled with all sorts of Manneken-Pises, some more utilitarian than others with bottle openers in strategic places.)

Also on the square are the 14th-century town hall (one of the most beautiful buildings in Europe), a Godiva chocolate shop (above which Victor Hugo lived when he wrote his Contemplations) and gold-encrusted 16th- and 17th-century guild houses (including one that’s now a brewer’s museum). A flower market occupies one corner; antique markets are held on the square on Saturday and a bird market on Sunday. In the area are other guild houses including those of keg makers larders tailors bow-and-arrow makers (the one with Romulus and Remus on the facade) and boatbuilders (the top looks like the stern of a 17th-century frigate).

After you have seen the square continue walking down one of the narrow side streets which are lined with quaint shops beer halls cafes and beautiful architecture. Turn onto Rue de l’Etuve next to the town hall so you can walk past the bronze plaque of a man and his dog on the side of L’Etoile (the Star) building. It’s a monument to the guild leader Everard Serclaes who led a rebellion against the Flemish in 1365 and had his tongue cut out in retribution. (If you rub his arm or the dog’s nose it’s supposed to bring you good luck.) Near the Amigo Hotel you’ll see a shop where sugared lilacs are sold (they are real flowers dipped in sugar) and another that sells lovely tapestries. About a block farther (two long blocks from Grand Place) is Semal a family-owned lace and crystal shop.