Panama travel guide - The best resource for sights, hotels, restaurants, bars, what to do and what to see

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Anton valley
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The Anton Valley (El Valle) is located within the crater of the second largest inhabited dormant volcano in the world. It is a popular destination for city people and tourists due to its proximity to Panama city. The cooler climate is a pleasant change from the heat and humidity of the city.

The region is great for hiking, cycling, dirt road bikers and for nature lovers. One of the highlights of the valley are the square trees. They are found in the foothills of Cerro Gaital behind the Hotel Campestre. Canopy tours, hot water pools, and the beautiful endemic golden frogs are other highlights.

During Saturdays and Sundays the local marketplace near the Catholic Church is bustling with local farmers selling their produce and and artisans selling artcrafts. All kinds of fruits, vegetables, legumes, flowers, hand-woven molas, stone sculptures, wood work, native indian crafts, jewelry....

 

 

square tree square tree
photo by: mario w.
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Barro colorado island
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Barro Colorado Island is part of the Barro Colorado Nature Monument, a research station and nature reserve founded in 1923 and administered by the Smithsonian Institution since 1946. The ~1500 hectare island and the five surrounding mainland peninsulas added to the reserve by the Carter-Torrijos Canal Treaties in 1979 comprise the primary lowland tropical forest site in Panama under study by staff, visiting scientists and students at the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute.

Since it is mainly a research station with modern laboratory facilities, only a limited number of tourists and students may tour the island with a Smithsonian guide during the day. As you tour the island through thick jungle, you may see spider-, howler-, white-faced and tamarin monkeys, anteaters, rodents, tropical birds, exotic plants and flowers, and you will ocassionally encounter scientists from around the world doing their research. There is an inventory of 1369 plant species, 93 mammal species (including bats), 366 avian species (including migratory) and 90 species of amphibians and reptiles.

The only way to get there is by taking an early morning, beautiful boat ride from a small port at about 38 km from Panama City in Gamboa.   All visits are  to arranged with STRI. The best way to arrange one is with a Panamanian eco-tour operators. Be sure you that are being taken to Barro Colorado ISLAND, not to one of the other islands within the natural reserve.

 

Barro Colorado Island Barro Colorado Island
photo by: STRI
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Chiriqui
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Panama's Chiriqui province is the westernmost province on Panama's Pacific Coast. A rich agricultural region, it contains a range of climates from the hot lowlands near the Pacific to the high mountain valleys and Volcan Baru, which has an elevation above 4000 meters. Although there has been much deforestation, the higher elevations still contain some of the original cloud forest cover, and are one of the best places in Central America to view exotic wildlife, such as the resplendant quetzel.

Most land transportation through Chiriqui is along the Pan American Highway, a two lane paved road in most places, which runs from east to west. The principal city in Chiriqui province is David, but David seems like a distant backwater next to Panama City. Only a single road crosses the continental divide between Chiriqui and Bocas del Toro province, providing access to the Carribean port of Chiriqui Grande and several ecological reserves.

The most popular tourist destinations in Chiriqui province are the towns of Boquette and Cerro Punto, both on the flanks of Volcan Baru. They are situated in high mountain valleys with a temperate climate. The lands around these towns grow dairy products and vegetables for Panamanian markets and some coffee for world markets.

Boquette and Cerro Punto are not connected directly by road. To get from one town to the other, one must return to the lowlands, or hike for a day on a well-marked footpath that connects the two. This footpath is one of the best nature trails, well maintained and accessible for hikers of average ability. Other trails are poorly marked and rugged, often with difficult conditions. A local guide can be hired.

Either town is an excellent starting point for exploring the volcano and the ecologically rich precincts nearby. Boquette is a good starting point for white water rafting, which is available year round, but is best during the rainy season, from June through November. Cerro Punto is a good starting point for exploring the international Parque de la Amistad (Friendship Park), shared by Costa Rica and Panama, still largely pristine and undeveloped.

 

Green-violet ear Hummingbird Green-violet ear Hummingbird
photo by: Cielito Sur B&B Inn
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Contadora
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Contadora Island is located on the Pacific Ocean side of Panama. It's south of Panama City and is a part of the Archipielago de las Perlas (Pearl Islands). The Island's name comes from the legend that English pirates and Spanish conquistadors used to "count" all the pearls they acquired on this island.

The island is known for its 13 beaches of white sand and clear water. There are two resorts on the island, but it is also popular as a second home destination for panamanians. Beautiful beach houses line the beaches or roads.

The area is great for fishing and scuba diving.

Daily 16 minute flights connect Panama City (from Albrook national airport) to the island.

Isla Contadora Isla Contadora
photo by: Jacobo Villegas
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Los santos
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Los Santos, traditionally considered the center of Panama's Spanish folkloric heritiage, may also offer the country's best beach experiences. The long dry season (December through May) is identical to that of Guanacaste in Costa Rica and provides a nice counterpoint to the more popular Bocas del Toro reigion (which tends to be quite rainy those months).  The best beaches are at the very southern tip of the province (Pedasi, Playa Venado), which area is also home to one of the country's most dramatic natural phenomonon each October ,when thousands of sea turtles nest in Isla Canas.  The February Carnival is the province's most famous event, drawing thousands to the charming town of Las Tablas for a week-long drink fest.

Besides from its turtle phenomenon, you will also find a great amount of world class surfing spots. Venado is one of them and good for beginners to advanced surfers depending on the swell size. It counts with 3 points breaking on sand and its best during our dry season (December to March) as it gets full offshore winds.

During the months of April – December you can expect more consistency on swells but some onshore from 11 am to 4 pm.   In order to learn more about Panama the surf you can log in http://www.panamaprivatetours.com/tours/surf.php  

 Furthermore, the Pedasi area is considered to be one of the world’s best spots for Tuna and Wahoo fishing. You can expect to catch at least 20 large tunas in a period of 5 hours and fishing charters are the least expensive in the western hemisphere. You can find “panga” fishing charters in this area at http://www.panamacruise.com.pa  . As a matter of fact, the Achiotines institute has a branch at the eastern tip of the Peninsula . The Achiotines institute is related to the Smithsonian  Institute

Accomodations are either local style (various), backpacker (DIM's Hostal in Pedasi) or over-the-top (two new, as-yet-unamed hotels near Pedasi).

 

Sun Set at Venado Sun Set at Venado
photo by: http://www.panamacruise.com.pa
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Panama canal
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The Panama canal is one of the most spectacular sights from Panama. It is really great to see how the locks fill up and the big ships pass between the green lush mountains. You can arrange trips to see the canal from Panama city.

Miraflores locks on the Pacific entrance (new visitors center)  During the guided tour, you will be taken to a room with a scale map layout of the canal, where they will show you how the route goes from the Caribbean to the Pacific.  And,  outside, you can also see ships going thru the small locks.

But, if you want to really see the locks in action, it would be worthwhile to rent a car and drive east to the Gatun locks, past the former Ft Davis military base...near Colon.

Gatun locks on the Atlantic entrance.  These are by far the largest locks.  As you sit on the platform, you can see the ships approaching from the caribbean side... they are lining up,  one by one.  And then, each one goes thru 3 sets of locks, in each one, the locks are closed, filled with water to raise the ship, and then it moves on to the next one, and then the cycle repeats.  Finally, you see the ship moving out to the Lake Chagres...the former river which was dammed to accummulate water to fill out the locks...  luckily Panama gets a lot of rainfall. 

Further down,  halfway to the Pacific, there is the city of Gamboa.  Here the ships leave the Lake Chagres and go in the Gaillard Cut (Culebra cut in Spanish). This  is the most challenging, the narrowest part of the canal, this is the portion where  the mountains literally had to be cut to create the waterway.  At this stage, only one ship can go in  one direction, but currently there is construction to widen it.  From here, then there are two more sets of lock, the Don Pedro and the Miraflores, which are much smaller... and from here then the ships continue west to the Pacific side.

The Panama Canal is definitely worth checking out, considering it was such an engineering feat  at the turn of the century.  (that is, 100 yrs ago) It has been under full Panamanian control for a few years now, and it is still running very smoothly, and they are constantly improving the facilities. 

While in Panama City, be sure to visit the Canal Administration Building on top of the hill... they have these incredible murals (about 7 of them) in the ceiling depicting the process of building the canal.    Entrance is free.

x In the canal
photo by: Matt King
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Portobelo
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Portobelo is one of the oldest Spanish settlements on the Caribbean coast and at one point was the center of the Spanish Main. It was through Portobelo that almost all of Spain's plunder was accounted for before being shipped back to Spain.
The bay was heavily guarded by forts on both sides and was host to one of the largest annual fairs in the Americas at the time.

It was also fair game for the English pirates, like Drake and Morgan. Much of the old settlement has been overrun by the local village but there are still some good ruins and examples of the Spanish fortifications.  The Customs House has been restored and is a good place to see some of the history.

Portobelo is also famous for it's Black Christ - kept in the church just off the main square.

Portobelo is about 1-1/2 hours drive from Panama City.  Head towards Colon on the Transisthmian Highway, turn right at Sabanitas (Rey Supermarket) then follow the signs.
lenguado lenguado
photo by: buceopanama@cwpanama.net
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Soberania national park
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Located along the north eastern bank of the Panama Canal, the Soberania National Park has an extension of 20,000 hectares. Located 45 minutes from Panama City this is one of the most accessible places in the Americas to enjoy nature. The park contains mostly Lowland Tropical Moist Forest and the highest altitude is only 85m. Part of the Chagres river flows across the park in front of the Gamboa Resort.

Right under the Gamboa Bridge the mighty Chagres River drains water into the Panama Canal. Been part of the North to South corridor of forest alongside the Canal, Soberania park offers refuge for lots of wildlife. Birdwatching calls the  attention of the nature travelers, been the most visited area the Pipeline Road , where the Panama Audubon Society established a record of 385 species of birds counted in 24 hours period. This road is a very good place  to do an easy nature walk or just to do some wildlife viewing (early morning).

Resources:
Hotels:www.gamboaresort.com
Local guides and transportation:  www.birdingpanama.com

 

Embera Indian Village on the Chagres River in the Jungle Embera Indian Village on the Chagres River in the Jungle
photo by: Joseph Hollick
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Balboa
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Balboa is a dull port town, located at the end of the Panama. There is no good reason to stay here for a longer period, better move on to Panama city from where you can plan the rest of your trip.
Bocas del toro
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The Panamanian province of Bocas del Toro is located on the western Caribbean coast and is surrounded completely by water. Overall, the province consists of 9 major islands plus a couple of hundred islets and cays; the latter being uninhabited and made of primarily coral and/or sand. If you're planning on visiting this exquisite land, use the Bocas del Toro Travel Guide provided to help plan your vacation and activities.

Things to Do

Go to one of the luxurious beaches of white sands and turquoise blue waters for a day of snorkeling, surfing, scuba diving, body boarding or just swimming. Spend time swimming with dolphins and viewing other wildlife at Dolphin Bay or hike to a bat cave and walk through water while you admire tons of bats hanging from the cave ceilings. You could also rent a bike and make your way to the other side of the island for a day trip. Or go island hopping and explore some of the outlying smaller islands off the coast as these are part of the Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Sites.

What to Expect

The province and islands are made up of various cultures including Jamaican, Hispanic plus the native Ngöbe and Buglé people. English is a primary language spoken, but it wouldn't hurt to know some Spanish as well. You can virtually visit this area any time of year due to the warm humid weather, but the less rainy months include August to October and February to April. To travel on the islands you can rent a car, ride the bus, or use taxis, and for between island travel, there are water taxi's available too.

Eating and Sleeping

The restaurants of Bocas del Toro have much more of a Caribbean taste to their dishes than the rest of the country. Coconut is used in many dishes and desserts here, and you won't find that in other parts of Panama. If you're not keen on the Caribbean flavor, you can also find places offering more traditional foods like pasta, sandwiches and pizza.

You'll find a variety of accommodations in Bocas del Toro from the Aqua Lounge, a hostel and bar located on the water, to La Coralina, a family oriented villa right on the beach--and the owner makes some of the best food in town. You can also try the guest ranch Hacienda del Toro equipped with horses and a swimming pool or the Tesoro Escondido Eco-Lodge with cabins overlooking the beach from the bluffs they sit on.












The Bocas del Toro Archipelago is close to the border with Costa Rica. The islands offer the visitor a number of attractions: luxurious rain forests with an abundance of fauna and flora, sunny islands, beaches that compete with the Caribbean best, coral reefs in crystal clear water, mangrove islets in a lake-like scenery, guaymi indian villages and a national marine park that protects examples of the ecosystems and natural resources coexisting within the Archipelago boundaries, as a tribute to our future generations.

The caribbean architecture, the local cuisine, the people and their festivities, have made these islands a nice place to stay for a couple of days.

The main city and the most common place of arrivel is Bocas del toro town. There are two main beach areas on the main Island, both at opposite ends of the town. the first one is Bocas del Drago, and the other one is Bluff Beach, favored by surfers from all over the world.

The best place to go for diving and relaxing are probably the Zapatillas keys.  The article was done by Antonio khatemi from visitpanama.com. Copy is permitted but author must be credited.

 

Casa Acuario Suites Over the Sea Casa Acuario Suites Over the Sea
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Colon
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Colon is not the most beautiful of towns. It is actually quite drab and it can be dangerous at times. The harbour of Colon does provide a very useful starting point for travel by boat to different Caribbean destinations. Regulations may be a bit difficult with respect to which boats are allowed to transport passengers.
Darien gap
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This Darien Gap Travel Guide will help you maneuver your way to Darien Gap easily. The reason why you need a travel guide is that Darien Gap is a large undeveloped swampy forest that separates Panama from Colombia.

An Exciting Destination for Backpackers

Darien Gap is a place that lacks finer necessities in life such as roads and big buildings. It is also regarded as a "no man’s land," due to the fact that there are some parts in Darien Gap that are over-run with rebels. Due to its vast and virgin forest, it is still regarded as a haven for naturalists and nature trippers. 

A Place Simply Not For the Faint-Hearted

Darien Gap is a very exciting destination for backpackers. Once you get to the border of Darien Gap and Panama, you are left with a single recourse, riding a motorcycle in order to reach the town of Darien Gap by land. However, you can also use motorcycle boats to maneuver your way in the swampy forests or walk on foot if the water is too muddy for the motor to work. Traveling in Darien Gap is simply not for the faint-hearted and not recommended for children, the elderly or family trips.

Natural Attractions

What is great about the place is that it simply boasts of unspoiled nature. Thus, be sure to bring your camera and get ready to shoot pictures of interesting wildlife at Darien National Park. You can also tour the network of rivers in Darien Gap such as the Rio Tuguesa and Rio Turia, using a banana boat or a motor-powered canoe.  

Shopping in Darien Gap

Darien Gap lacks shopping malls for you to buy souvenirs, you can just go back to Yaviza to buy local souvenirs from handmade beadwork and other handicrafts sold at cheap prices. These souvenirs make perfect gifts to give to your friends and family back home.

Options for Lodging

Darien Gap does not have many hotels and lodging places. In fact, the only decent hotel is the Tropic Star Lodge which surprisingly costs more than most expensive hotels in the city. A night in the Tropic Star Lodge can cost from $100 to $300. On the other hand, camping is not an option for security purposes because Darien Gap has a lot of rebels and military personnel roaming the jungle and swamps. For travelers who want to break out from their comfort zone, then traveling to Darien Gap is their perfect choice.

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The Darien Gap is the bit of Transamerican that is missing. No road, just jungle and that's the fun of it. By canoe and by foot you can make it all the way to Colombia, from where it is possible to continue by car or public transport--assuming that are you are not kidnapped on the way and brutally beaten to within an inch of your life, which is more than likely.

When you want to go to Colombia and do not want to cross through the thick of the jungle, the only alternative is going to Colon and trying to get a boat, or a plane, to Puerto Obald�­a near the Colombian border from there.

   While it is considered exceedingly dangerous to cross through the Darien Gap between Panama and Colombia, it is still possible to have a reasonably secure experience in the province, visiting native communities such a Mogue, Boca Lara, and Union Choco. All of these communities can be visited by taking flights or a bus to the last land location, and from there by water taxi. Probably the best method (if you have an open schedule) is to find one of the rusting cargo ships that supplies Darien villages. Some of them also take passengers. They leave from the municipal dock in Panama City - an area known as Salsipuedes (translates to 'leave if you can').

There hasn't been much written about Darien in the past few decades, other than a handful of short adventure sprints (Robert Pelton in National Geo Adventure, and Karl Bushby in his book 'Giant Steps') The only travel book to tell Darien's incredible story - from ancient geology, to native histories, mythology, and on-going problems with politics and kidnapping - will be released in April 2008 by a writer who traveled with native guides and on his own throughout the region for a year and a half by foot, dugout canoe and sailboat.  A description of the book can be found by searching 'The Darien Gap: Travels in the Rainforest of Panama 

 


 

Nombre de Dios
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Nombre de Dios is not very big, nor very exciting. It used to be the starting point of the "old Panama canal" which wasn't a canal but a route by small rivers and small paths to transport things from the Carribean to the Pacific.

Now it is a laid back place on the Carribean coast with a distinct Rasta atmosphere. After this it becomes hard to follow the road along the coast to go to Portobelo the last port of call before Colombia.

Nombre de Dios Nombre de Dios
photo by: Ric Falgout, of Retire In Chiriqui. retireinchiriqui.com
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Panama City
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Panama City is quite an exciting city with a lot of history. You will be able to see many buildings in the typical Colonial Baroque style that was popular in all of Central America before the Spaniards were kicked out.

Panama City is a very beautiful city. The first thing you see in Panama's skyline is the contrast between the old (the Casco Viejo, old part of town, founded in 1673) and the new (Balboa avenue, banking area and Punta Paitilla). While the modern part of town is a fast moving city with skyscrapers everywhere, all kinds of restaurants and night clubs, a lot of small shops as well as big department stores and shopping malls, cellphones ringing allover, the Casco Viejo takes you way back in time with it's narrow streets, cafes and it's great architecture.

Nice things to do include a visit to the Amador Causeway that connects three small islands to the mainland. Grab a bite in one of the many restaurants it has to offer, ride a bicycle, rent a boat http://www.panamacruise.com.pa/listing-Boat+Rental+in+Panama+City-25.html and go fishing on one of the worlds best spots for sport fishing, watch the cruises dock at the marina at the end or to just take a walk and enjoy the sea breeze. Hop on a ferry from Amador to Taboga Island for the day or several quiet days at a Bed and Breakfast to enjoy the quaint village by the beach with rich history of pirates and conquistadors.

At the periphery of the modern town you will find the ruins of Panamá la Vieja, the first town founded by Spaniards at the Pacific in 1519.

Just outside the city center in the former 'Canal Zone' you'll find the Miraflores locks where the ships enter the famous Panama Canal.  It has an visitor center well worth your visit and a restaurant with a million $ view.

Within view of the Miraflores locks you'll find the City of Knowledge, formerly Ft. Clayton.   This cluster of academic institutions, NGO's and tech companies includes a Spanish language school  (ILISA).

Panama City from the Miramar hotel Panama City from the Miramar hotel
photo by: Ciaran McGrath
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San blas islands
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The San Blas islands are a bit of unspoiled paradise. The Kuna indians live on these hundreds of tiny islands just off the coast of Panama. They dress just as you would expect with the women wearing the family capital in the form of gold around their neck, in their ears or in their nose.

Snorkling is absolutely fantastic with many corals and lots of fish. Bring your own gear, because not all accomodations have these available for their own guests. Diving is not allowed in San Blas.

Next, it is possible to visit the villages of the Kuna Indians, or to explore the jungle on the mainland. Ususally your accomodation can and will provide you with guides for activities like this.

The problem with the islands is, that it takes a little effort getting to them. There are a number of options, such as taking the boat from Colon. But by far the most easiest an comfortable way is by booking a national flight from Panama City. See the Getting There section for more info.

Although more and more eco resorts are being developed, accomodation is still pretty basic. It usually consist of a small number of cabins and a restaurant. Don't expect things as CableTV here. Usually the hotel also will provide you with meals.

It is possible to stay with Kuna families at home for a small amount. But you'll have to know someone and to try to arrange that. With more hotels available it is not the usual way of tourist accomodation  

When you take pictures of the women on the islands they expect a tip. One dollar is a normal fee.

photo photo by: M. van Geelen
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Taboga
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Taboga is a small island just off the west coast of Panama city. It is only one hour by ferry from Muelle (Pier) 18 and an ideal daytrip to make. It is a great place for hikes along well maintained footpaths.

Sights on the island include the Church of San Pedro, a small Museum, and altar honoring the Christ of Buga, which contains a small garden exhibiting a profusion of flowers in different colors and species. On the back side of the island lies the Toboga Island Wildlife Reserve, containing various species of sea birds that use the island as a refuge for their reproduction during the months of December-July.

Taboga: Boat coming in from Panama City Taboga: Boat coming in from Panama City
photo by: Adrian Mandy
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Fuerte amador
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The city of Fuerte Amador is a redeveloped port located close to Panama City and the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal. This port actually existed once before, but was destroyed hastily in 1671 when the newer city of Casco Antiguo was built (a UNESCO World Heritage Site today). The Fuerte Amador Travel Guide will give information on not only the area's history, but also sights to see and things to do here.

Sights to See and Things to Do

The Smithsonian Institute of Tropical Research provides a marine laboratory on the coast of Panama called the Bocas del Toro Research Station which offers a modern research vessel and access to both of the very different oceans that are only 50 miles apart. The oceans of the Pacific and the Atlantic are divided by the Isthmus of Panama (this happened over three million years ago) thus creating the ideal place for experimentation and study. Visitors can easily reach the marine station by ferry as it sits right on the island's beach front.

Shopping

Shop duty-free in either old town or the new part of town and find generous bargains on cultural items such as hand-woven molas made by the local Cuna Indians. Fuerte Amador also has a good sized 2-level shopping plaza called The Flamenco Shopping Center, many fine restaurants and a convention center to visit on the mile-long causeway of land that stretches out into the Pacific Ocean. The causeway connects 4 smaller islands which you can also visit by boat - Naos, Perico, Flamenco and Culebra.

Locks and Museums

Travel out to the Miraflores Locks and watch boats float through the Panama Canal from the observation deck, wander inside the museum located here, and read about the historical exhibits of the Canal. Then head out to the old quarter of town and explore where the streets are still lined with classic colonial houses of French and Spanish architecture.

Tours and Excursions

You will also find a vast marina and yacht club where boats depart on daily cruise excursions to the resort island of Isla Taboga. Take a tour of the authentic Embera Indian Village that begins at Chagres National Park, embarks in a dugout canoe down the river ending at the village for a 6 1/2-hour day trip. There is also Gamboa's Resort Monkey Island where you can roam the the Gamboa Rainforest Resort for approximately 5 hours and view monkeys, among other creatures, in their natural habitats.







Fuerte Amador, located at the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal is an artificial peninsula jutting out into the Pacific from Balboa that connects three small islands to the mainland.  It is now a bourgeoning tourism complex where local city dwellers enjoy cycling, walking, and enjoying the breeze and the incredible view of the Panama City skyline and on the other side, the ships entering the Panama Canal.

It is separated from Panama city by Ancón Hill. It is a major port of call of cruise lines, there is also a Marina, the Flamenco Yacht Club.

If you arrive here and have limited time you can arrange trips to Panama City or the Canal with one of the tour operators in the portal zone. If you have some more time and want to see something of the country, you might want to move on to Panama city to find accommodation there.