Direct decendants of Guatemala

Holy Week is the most spectacular time in La Antigua, with colorful processions winding their way through the streets of the city. Of particular beauty are the sawdust carpets made on the streets for the processions to step on. The sawdust is dyed different colors. Then, beautiful designs are cut out of cardboard, and the sawdust is sieved through these cuttings. The result of this painstaking work is truly striking. Visitors who wish to visit La Antigua during Easter week should make hotel reservations far in advance, as many people come to Antigua to enjoy these beautiful traditions.

La Antigua Guatemala is famous for its jade factories, where beautiful pieces can be found. It is also known for its ceramics: the beautiful hand-painted birds and butterflies come from La Antigua. The woodwork from La Antigua is well known, as is its typical candy. There are several schools for intensive Spanish study, with a choice of study plans that range from one week of 4 hours per day to four weeks of 7 hours of intensive daily classes. Some of these plans include lodging for the student with a Guatemalan family.

Only 4 miles from La Antigua, you will find Ciudad Vieja. Ciudad Vieja is the site where the second capital of the Kingdom of Guatemala was founded (see chapter on History). In 1541, it was destroyed by volcanic eruptions that engulfed the town. The original church was excavated intact. The remains of the Governor's Palace (1527) are behind the school. The third story is exposed, but the first two floors are still buried.

A major market center for the Indians of the western highlands, Chichicastenango becomes inundated on Thursdays and Sundays with traders who bring their wares, textiles and handicrafts from all the towns of the region. With all the hustle and bustle of market day, and the outside merchants who come to town, it is often difficult to see through the activity and focus on the town itself. If a visitor arrives a day early or stays a day after the market, he or she will be able to enjoy Chichicastenango at peace.  The place is very crowded, almost like too difficult to walk!

One good side trip is to visit Pascual Abaj.  It is just south of town, within walking distance...and a little of a hike...but the little forest is beautiful, and when you get to the top, first, you are treated to a wonderful panoramic view of town and the surrounding hills (the crowds stayed behind in the market)  You get to see the "shrine" to Pascual Abaj.  These guys pray, light candles, they even give cigarettes and alcohol to this "deity"....pretty interesting.     Just show up at the main church and ask one of the boys there to give you a tour...they will give you a good historical background and take you there...and then walk you around the market.  Some of them also speak english.

Many of the peaks are over 1.8 miles high and are covered in frost in the early morning for much of the year. The topography in Huehuetenango is very varied and interesting, as is the constantly changing vegetation.

Among the places that should be included in a visit to the Department of Huehuetenango are:

CHIANTLA: This church is famous for its silver image of the Virgin Mary.

ZACULEU: The ruins of Zaculeu belong to the post-classical period of the Mayan civilization. The complex consists mainly of a series of buildings. The walls of these constructions have no hieroglyphic writings and there are no stele or other figures. The site has basically a strategic defense layout.

TODOS SANTOS CUCHUMATAN: This is an isolated town that is nestled amid mountains as high as 2 miles. Its people have kept most of their old ways and almost invariably retain the dress of the town anywhere they go. The best time to visit Todos Santos is during the local fiesta, from October 31 to November 5, when the horse races and other forms of celebration can be witnessed.

These and other nearby towns can be visited in one day, using the city of Huehuetenango as a starting point. Accommodations are adequate in the city of Huehuetenango.

This is the largest of Guatemala's lakes. It is a gentle expanse of water hemmed in by the Sierra de las Minas to the south and the Santa Cruz range to the north. The waters of the lake are rich in perch, tarpon and other game fish. Unique to the lake is the fresh-water manatee, or sea cow, a mammal that can weigh up to a ton. This species is in danger of extinction and the manatees are the largest mammals in the country.

The photo is of a hot waterfall on the north side of the lake.  Hot water falls from a height of 10 meters into a cold mountain pool at the foot of the mountains. 20 minutes from there you can stay at the Beach of Finca Paradiso (125Q, if negotiaded).  It is possible to hike a couple of hundred yards upstream and see the cave from which the river exits after passing completely under the mountain.  A little further along the dirt road that lines the north shore of the lake is the Boqueron Canyon where for a very small sum you can paddle up an incredible canyon.  The sleepy town of El Estor is a few miles further on and has a couple of backpacker hotels where you can get transport to Coban and Lanquin.

Lake Izabal is also accessable on the south shore by taking the paved road that leaves the main east-west highway at the Trincheras junction (KM 217) and visiting Mariscos, a small fishing village.  This road is very beautiful and passes through rubber plantations and offers great views of the lake.  There is also affordable accomodation in Mariscos and other nearby towns.  This area is great for hiking, water sports, kayaking and other great activities.

This area is virtually untouched by tourism, and there is a good chance that you won't see many other groups of travellers.  If you value this, Lake Izabal is a good choice for you to spend a few days.

One of the top draws to Quetzaltenango, or "Xela," as the Guatemalans call it, is the wide range of top-quality Spanish schools. There are dozens to choose from and many are quite good. This gives the town a surprisingly cosmopolitan feel. On any Friday, walk into a bar and see the groups of international students and their Guatemaltecan teachers celebrating the end of the school week.

The schools are an excellent value. Most charge US$125-175/week for 25 hours of one-on-one instruction and a homestay with a local family. The best way to find one? Show up in Xela and collect recommendations from other foreigners. Then pound the pavement: go to the schools in person, and pick the one with the best teachers or extracurricular program. 

The history of the city of Ceibal is written in the stelae that circle the principal plaza and they speak of persons related to the Mayan lineage, among them, those of Tikal. The last stele, chronologically speaking, is interesting because it shows a person with Mexican features,and its design includes features predominantly Toltecan (it marks a new dynasty of Toltecan domination.)

There is also a stela dedicated to a female person in Ceibal.

Guatemala City the country’s capital, is by far the largest town in the country. The city is located in a large valley dominated by the Agua Volcano. Guatemala city is rapidly becoming the biggest town of Central America, excluding Mexico of course, with a population of more than 2 million inhabitants. When you are there you do not have the impression that it is such a big place. It is split in about 20 Zonas,  but they do not run in an orderly fashion.  A local Guatemalan mentioned that their city is like a broken dish, as the 20 pieces just fell randomly everywhere, so don't be surprised if you are riding in Zona 3 and suddenly you are in Zona 9, there is no logical order.  Taxis are pretty inexpensive, though traffic can be hectic at times. There are only a few high rise buildings, in Zona 10, mostly, sort of their "Wall St".   The city is packed with interesting sights and museums.The main downtown square, in Zona 1, has a very nice fountain, and near it you will see the Palacio Nacional,  you need to prebook a tour if you want to see it.  On the other side of the plaza you will see the Catedral...a very nice one...sort of like european style (as opposed to the more simple styles in Antigua). There is a museum shop right there for mementos.   1 1/2 blocks behind the cathedral is the market.   You have to go down these steps... it is a neat place to take a walk, and to pick up any last minute souvenirs you did not get at Chichicastenango or any of the other destinations.

At Zona 10, there is  a University, Francisco Marroquin, which 2 excellent museums.  The best one is the Museo Popol Vuh....open monday  to friday until 5pm.  It is very well laid out, and it gives a nice introduction to those of you heading out to Tikal.  Zona 13, near the airport, has also a couple interesting museums as well.

In terms of nightlife,  Zona 10  has very nice restaurants to suit all tastes, and there are also some clubs and bars in the area. Some foreign embassies are along located around here. 

Guatemala City is sort of like the country's hub. The international airport is there (Flores is not starting to get international flights) and from here you can get transportation to  virtually anywhere in the country.   There are the so called "chicken buses", which are recycled school buses from the USA, they are privately owned, but they cover many different routes.   Another option are the "shuttles", they cost a bit more, but not real expensive...  they run in a fixed schedule, and they are very reliable....easier on some of us tourists logging our backpacks and stuff.

Very close to the modern Guatemala City lies Antigua Guatemala- the place that has kept its historical center and is very popular with travelers. Don’t miss it.  Check out this section for more information.

Lake Atitlán is volcanic in origin. Its surface is 1562 meters above sea level, although this figure varies somewhat from year to year as the lake rises and falls. The maximum recorded depth is 324 meters but the lake is probably somewhat deeper in parts. It is 12 miles long and between 4.4 and 7.5 miles wide. The total surface area of the lake is 81.25 square miles.

Here, on the shores of Lake Atitlan you will find the Nature Reserve of San Buenaventura. This Nature Reserve occupies half the valley of San Buenaventura in Panajachel, on the shores of Lake Atitlán It has more than 100 hectares of native forest. Its goal is the conservation of tine natural surroundings in the Lake Atitlán Basin.

The Nature Reserve is committed to biodiversity with the certainty that humans are as rich and diverse as their environment. This privately funded project intends to be an economically viable alternative to the traditional uses of land and natural resources in the area.

Its achievements already include the planting of more than 180,000 trees in the valley of San Buenaventura, the installation of efficient wood burning stoves in the neighboring communities, garbage recycling, and the use of solar energy and biodigestors. At present the Reserve has the following facilities:

1. Nature Trails with signs offer self-guided walks through the characteristic ecosystems of the North Shore, using a highly informative 12 page guide, printed both In Spanish and English.

2. Enclosed Butterfly Preserve with approximately 5,625 cubic meters (170,000 cu. ft.) of flight space, a 2,500 cu. ft. breeding laboratory for pupae and chrysalis with information on the butterflies life cycle more than 2,000 plants and approximately 500 live specimens of nearly 25 species of native Guatemalan butterflies.

The Butterfly Preserve illustrates the importance of these insects in nature and allows us to explore the relationship that humans have with their environment. The management of large populations of these insects will also allow their reintroduction in the area.

3. A Bird Refuge that at present has temporary trails for visitor to enter the area which will be developed into a formal, protected bird refuge over the next 2 years. Planting for bird sustenance will include an estimated 600 native fruit tress and thousands of native flowering and seed plants. This refuge will contain elevated walk-ways, tree platforms and suspensions bridges in order to allow the visitor traffic views of the area and its animal life without unduly intruding upon it. These measures should attract native and migrating birds while creating conditions for visitors and scholars to observe the birds without disturbing them. Completion dates for both the planting and the trail/platform/bridge systems is October 1995.

4. Orchid Garden Within the Butterfly Preserve with, at present, some 50 species of the more than 500 species native to Guatemala.

5. Visitors Center with a 110 m2 (1,200 sq. ft. visitor reception area which includes offices, men's and women's rest rooms a refreshment/souvenir area, a 140 mt2 (1500 sq. ft.) landscaped waiting/resting area, and a parking area for both buses and private vehicles (completion date scheduled for July. 1995).

Prices for entry into the Nature Reserve are as follows: Adults US$20.00; Students US$10.00; Children US$10.00: Families US$35.00; Groups with more than 6 people US$12.00 each. These prices include visit to the Butterfly Preserve, the Nature Trails and the Bird Refuge.

The Nature Trails and the Bird Refuge is open from 8:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. , and is selfguided. Earlier visitation is possible with permission from the Administration.

The Butterfly Sanctuary is open from 10:00 A.M. to 3;00 P.M. daily, and is guided in either Spanish or English. A complete tour of the Reserve takes from 2 to 3 hours, while the guided visit to the Butterfly Preserve alone takes 30 to 45 minutes.

For more information, please contact Felipe Marín at San Buenaventura de Atitlán in Panajachel, Guatemala, tel/fax 502 7622059 or 7621441 ext. 2227 or write to San Buenaventura de Atitlán 16 Calle 4-53, zona 10, Edificio Marbella 3er nivel, Guatemala, Contral America.

In addition to all this information, it is also a good experience to visit some of the surrounding towns around the lake.  The main tourist arrival town is Panajachel, which is about a 1 hr drive from Chichicastenango, about  4 hrs from Guatemala city, (3 from Antigua).  Panajachel is a small town,  its main street is called Calle Santander...most budget places to stay  as well as fancier places are off this "main street".  A lot of the traffic there is via Tuk Tuk taxis, or just walking. There are many small restaurants in this area for tourists, and a great variety of them, there is an Indian restaurant (good vegetarian option),  a couple steakhouses,  mexican food, guatemalan food, even a few taco stands on the street. If you like seafood, you may inquire about the local lake fish, called MOJARRA (lake Perch)  Calle Santander is also the center of the small "nightlife"... some of the restaurants double up as bars in the evening hours.

There are several Spanish language schools in Panajachel. Classes are usually one-to-one with a teacher and, if you wish, you can live with a local family for the total immersion experience. On Calle Santander, at the opposite end to the Lake, is Spanish School Jabel Tinamit. This is a Mayan run school offering flexible lessons to international students.

Calle Santander ends at the lakeshore...within a few minutes walk.  There are some seaside small restaurants/stands in the area...also, there  are small boats which can be taken to visit the surrounding towns along the lake.  Every small town has its own character,  locals dress different clothing at each places, they even speak different dialects, so among themselves, they may need to communicate in Spanish.

Examples of other towns: San Pedro de la Laguna...within 50 mins by ferry from Pana.  You must walk a hill to get to the main town...nice church,  great views.  Also, check out the small market next to the church, very nice...you get to see how the locals do grocery shopping....not much in terms of souvenirs, though their coffee beans are supposed to be better than Antiguas'.  Another town is Santiago de Atitlan. This one is a little bigger....and one can go visit the small sanctuary to the deity, Maximon.  You need to ask a local person,as the place changes from time to time.

Lake Atitlan is wonderful.  Definitely a must see to any tourist visiting the area.

Lake Izabal. Following a ride along the Rio Dulce river, you reach Livingston, a village with the magic of the Caribbean Garífuna people. The place becomes liveliest during their exotic Afro-Caribbean festivals and celebrations, mainly on December 12th, New Year's and during Carnival.

Above Livingston, the Río Dulce plunges through a great gorge between green cliffs. Tropical and sea birds flitter about and soar above the tangled vegetation. About two miles north of Livingston are the "siete Altares", a series of small pools and waterfalls where the river empties into the sea. Adequate accommodations are found in small hotels.

We also recommend a visit to the San Gil Ecological Reserve, to the east of the Sierra de los Micos mountain range, over Las Escobas River, a Central American wilderness refuge. It can be accessed from that point 15 km. on a paved and then dirt road. Las Escobas River gives the traveller the opportunity to gaze at the untouched forest, and venture into the jungle where he will find 24 crystalline pools and 14 waterfalls for a refreshing swim.

Some 10 square miles of central Tikal have been mapped, revealing over 3000 separate buildings: temples, shrines, ceremonial platforms, small and mid-sized residences, ball courts, terraces, causeways and plazas. Concentrated in and about the ceremonial precincts are over 200 stone monuments; that is, carved and plain stele and altars. Such statistics only hint at the enormity and richness of Tikal, especially when one realizes how small a percentage of the site has been excavated. The massive ruins of Tikal are concentrated at the center of the Tikal National Park (222 square miles). The site is full of roads and trails that lead to all the major archaeological groups.

The lush vegetation of the forest in the area of Tikal ranges from huge trees measuring up to 150 feet in height, to a great variety of dwarf and tall palms. Looped throughout the forest are endless hanging vines known as lianas. Two hundred and eighty-five species of birds have been recorded to date in Tikal. These include blue and white herons, hawks, parrots, turkeys, buzzards and hummingbirds. Large bands of spider monkeys populate Tikal. Beyond the Tikal settlement are plentiful populations of jaguar, puma and ocelot, as well as peccary, small deer and, as may be expected, snakes, for the most part harmless.

Monterrico is a black-sand beach on Guatemala's Pacific coast. It is considered by many to be Guatemala's best beach but, having said that, let it be known that Guatemala has not put much energy into developing beach-related tourism. If you're looking for luxurious, expansive beaches and fancy resorts with room service, you may wish to go down to El Salvador for the weekend. 

There are two or three luxurious hotels now in Monterrico: Dos Mundos, Utz Tzaba, Cayman Suites.

In Monterrico, you'll meet backpackers from around the world. You can lie in a hammock, eat a veggie burger and drink a huge, inexpensive piña colada. You can play in the waves (a little too big for some people's taste). Walking down the street, you'll see the real local flavor, not a shiny facade put on for the tourists. You can visit the animal sanctuary and release a baby turtle into the wild.

You can get  tours to watch wales, horseback riding, night tours to see turtles, bird watching tours, kayac tours.

You get to Monterrico by driving to La Avellana and taking a boat through mangrove swamps for half an hour. It's a gorgeous ride.

Jalapa is located in the East side of the City.  It has beautiful places to visit as San Luis Jilotepeque, with 75% of Indian people who talk the Pocomam language.  You can visit also "Los Chorros de Pinula", with two beautiful places to swim with regular water and warm water that it is taken right there where the fountain is located.

Pacaya's current active phase began in 1965, and the volcano has been almost constantly in eruption since then. Eruptive activity ranges from minor gaseous emissions and quiet steam eruptions, to explosions powerful enough to hurl bombs up to 12 kilometers and necessitate the evacuation of numerous villages on the flanks of the volcano.

The easiest and most secure way to visit Pacaya is to go with a tour operator, of which there are numerous in Antigua Guatemala taking groups to visit Pacaya every day for around $15 - $20 per person.

If you have your own transportation and an adventurous spirit, you can go on your own. To reach Pacaya, head south from Guatemala city, on the highway to Escuintla, but turn off on the road to the town of San Vicente Pacaya and Pacaya Volcano National Park before reaching the town of Palín. The sign is not very prominent so watch out.

There are two trails up Pacaya Volcano. The more gentle trail, followed by most of the tour groups from Antigua, starts at San Francisco de Sales. Here is the official entrance to the park, and where you need to stop to pay admission (Q25 for foreign visitors in 2001, Q10 for residents). The trail from here is well maintained, with rest stops, trash receptacles and restrooms (primitive), and is patrolled by guardabosques (rangers). There is safe parking for your vehicle here in San Francisco, and you can also buy refreshments here.

It's a good hike to the base of the Pacaya cone. It brings you to the rim of the old Cerro Chino crater where the view is already magnificent. The volcanic cones of Acatenango, Fuego and Agua are visible here. This is where the final steep ascent begins and it's difficult. It's a constant process of two steps up and one step back and you slide back in the ash and loose volcanic rock.

The view from top is well worth it. Pacaya IS an active volcano and there are two immediate hazards to concern yourself with: one, be careful to avoid the sulfur clouds of smoke. Breathing them in is quite uncomfortable (when the smoke combines with the wate rin your lungs you get mild sulferic acid) and two, watch where you sit, there are small active vents that emit very hot that will quite possibly burn you if you aren't careful.

The fun part is the descent where you have to nearly ski down the slope. It's exhilerating but well worth it.