Haeundae

Haeundae, an hour and half away from Samsandong express bus terminal is an excellent day trip, serving up a prestigious golden sand beach, western shopping and eating opportunities along with some laidback café culture and sizzling nightlife.

Situated in the city of Busan and stretching 1.55 km in a gently curving horseshoe shape it is Korea’s most famous beach. The golden sand - regrettably not always garbage free – is some of the best maintained in the entire country with ample space (off-peak) to sun-bathe, play sports and swim in the ocean.

Be sure to visit the largest Aquarium in the country also along the front, containing some thirty-five thousand creatures. Entry is a pricy 16,000won.

Behind the Westin Chosun hotel is APEC Park, meeting place for the 2005 Asia-Pacific Economic Cooperation summit, between Pacific Rim countries. It makes for a pleasant walk and has good views of the coastline and East Sea (Sea of Japan).

Yet there’s a lot more to Haeundae than just the beach and these sights.

Located a five minute walk from the train and bus stations is the SfunZ shopping mall containing a number of familiar western chain food and clothing stores. Visit the basement of the building for a bookstore retailing English language books.

There is even an Apple Mac retailer in the area if you look and research well enough.

Closer to the front, clustered conveniently together, and likened to a beacon of western civilization are another collection of chain stores. Starbucks, McDonald’s, Dunkin’ Donuts, Outback Steakhouse, Bennigans and TGI Fridays.

Around the side of the building from Dunkin’ Donuts is Hello Thai! a Thai restaurant that must be tried.

As for nightlife visit U2 with live music (foreigner bands) which is located only a stones throw from the Marriot hotel.

A word of warning however. Avoid high season on the beach. It becomes a wall of humanity and a roof of umbrellas all for hire at 5,000won. It really isn’t fun and the amount of people on the beach and in the water causes your stress levels to rise rather quickly. There just isn’t any possible way to enjoy such a situation.

Either side of peak season then, Haeundae is a delight.

The whole area though is a mix-match of ultra modern and times past. You’ll walk down a street where old and new sit uncomfortably mashed together.

Another thing you’ll notice is the smell.

There are so many visitors but no efficient infrastructure for garbage collection. Thus sidewalks and roads are stained with all kinds of human waste and detritus. It’s not particularly pleasant.

Haeundae could be considered a microcosm for the whole country. It seems to physically embody what’s happening to Korea - on the inside it has pulled itself into the 21st century but outside, on the streets they’re decades behind.

Still, it is very difficult to be disappointed with anything Haeundae has to offer coming from Ulsan. Go and explore. You’re sure to stumble on some absolute gems.

Getting there: Take an express bus from the Samsandong express bus terminal departing every 20 - 25 minutes. 5,200won. Please note, the route the bus takes is not a smooth one and that the driving can be quite erratic.

Trains are available both ways though very infrequent throughout the day with one early morning and three early evening services to Haeundae. For coming home in the evening services are much better.

Ulsan - Haeundae
(Times below are from Hogey station in Ulsan so please add ten minutes (roughly) for the departure time from the main station in the city).

06:59 a.m.
17:33 p.m.
19:22 p.m.

Haeundae - Ulsan

06:41 a.m.
09:29 a.m.
18:46 p.m.
19:30 p.m.
20:18 p.m.
22:30 p.m.

The fare is a little under 3,200won and journey time is one hour.