Hiwasa, Tokushima, Japan Travel Guide

In Tokushima Prefecture, about two hours south of Tokushima City, is the small coastal town of Hiwasa. The train station rents bicycles (no children's sizes), but Hiwasa is small to explore comfortably on foot. The station area is not particularly remarkable, but there are some reasonable beaches within a 20-30-minutes' walk. In June, loggerhead turtles come ashore to lay eggs, so the beaches are then restricted. If you really enjoy turtles, there is also a Sea Turtle Museum with interesting displays, pictures, and videos, though most are in Japanese; since the museum hatches and releases turtles into the wild, there might be very small hatchlings swimming in the indoor tanks and larger turtles in the outdoor pools.

Perhaps the biggest draw in Hiwasa is the outstanding Yakuouji Temple, #23 on the Shikoku temple circuit. The temple is built on two levels, both with good views down over Hiwasa and out over the ocean: the first has a small carp pond and a gong to strike for good health; the second has a distinctive orange column tower. Pay the small fee to walk down the stairs that lead into a pitch black tunnel; grope your way through it, as through the life it symbolizes, until you reach the lit (i.e., enlightened) room at the end with a very old illustrated scroll showing the stages of life from birth to death to graphic decay to dust again.

There are seasonal attractions, including an Iron Man contest. A nod to the local fishing industry, there is also an Ise Ebi Lobster Festival. Those staying in Hiwasa might consider the Hiwasa Youth Hostel, although there is a large hotel near the museum and overlooking the ocean.