The subway or Underground Dragon is definitely the best way of travelling quickly within Beijing. It can move at up to 70km (43mi) per hour - a jaguar compared to the lumbering buses. But while it's clean and easy to use the trains are starting to show their age. If you simply must catch a bus around town sharpen your elbows chain your wallet to your underwear and muster all the patience you can - you'll need it. Oversized and overstuffed buses are the norm in Beijing. There are about 140 bus and trolley routes which makes navigation rather confusing especially if you can't see out the window, even for locals.

Beijing taxis are multiplying fast: finding one is not difficult, but making yourself understood in English may be a bit more problematic. If you don't speak Chinese bring a map or have your destination written down in characters. (The hotel brochure is essential for finding your way back if you are staying at an out-of-the-way place.) Telephone bookings are possible. Taxis cost between Y1.20 and Y2.00 per kilometer (their rate is indicated on the passenger side window). Be sure to ask the driver to use the meter. Pricier taxis seem to try to pull fast ones on tourists more often than cheaper taxis. Tipping is not standard. Get ready for a long ride if you grab a taxi in peak hour.

Like much of China Beijing looks so much better once you're pedalling. A bike shortens those long dreary stretches avoids the footpath throng and helps you feel a lot more like a local. Hotels - especially budget hotels - often rent out bikes at reasonable rates or there are the numerous bike hire outfits in the streets around hotels and tourist spots.