Your first impresison of Mosul from the south may not be that positive. The buildings are modern and have a utilitarian look. But once you get to the river, the old houses that still stand on the water's edge and the parks you can start appreciating the place. You can see minarets and church spires and domes above the rooftops. This area has a mixed christian and muslim population

One of the main tourist sights is a church: Chamoun al Safa dates from the thirteenth century. It has a deep underground courtyard and a cemetery between high walls containing some ornate tombstones of Moslawi merchants.

Another Christian monument is the Syrian Orthodox Church of Ma Toma (St, Thomas). It is lavishly, even gaudily, decorated although from the outside it looks rather dull. On one wall, you see a small illuminated and lass-fronted pigeon-hole in which are displayed the relics of St. Thomas.

The oldest mosque is the Al Kabir, the Great Mosque, built in beginning of the 10-th century by Nur-ad-Din esh Shahid. Next door is a fine brick minaret that leans like the Tower of Pisa. It is all that is left of an Ommayad mosque from 640 AD.