Stay at hotel Chez ali, its in the lonely planet although it si bigger than the book hints with berber tents an a errace for backbackers and more salubrious rooms with air con inside,

the staff are grat, english speaing and keep the place sptless. Its also a great place to start a desert trek, Mr Ali Blandi owns his camels they are well looked after and his guides are the best for cooking trekking and of course singing. I had a four day trek and slept under the stars, though there is a tent for the more timid soul.

One word of warning, when U first arrive in zagora dont flash the lonely planet or similar or you will soon be fought over  like a dog with a bone as tthe touts flock and mob. Also some will pretend to be Mr Blandi or even tell you he died but they can help