Orientation in Cairo

The biggest part of Cairo is on the East bank of the Nile. The Pyramids and the Sphinx are on the West Bank. Zamalek is a small residential island in the Nile.  If you are in Cairo for any legnth of time, Zamalek has several western-style grocery markets which may be less intimidating for an out-of-towner than those in downtown.  Zamalek is also home to the one and only Gezira club, which occupies much of the island.  The Opera house is also on Zamalek, and is a very nice stop if you have the time.

Avoid Midan Talat Harb unless you want to be mobbed by touts-- but most of the rest of downtown makes lovely walking.  The leafy streets of Garden City are just minutes away from where most tourists stay in downtown, but they are off the usual touristy path, and a lovely change from dusty downtown.  On the other side of the Nile, Mohandaseen is mostly a residental district, but it has some nice places to grab some tam'mia and fatir or whatever. 

If you are really adventerous, Mu'qutum (the hills to the east of Cairo) is a great place to go spend an evening smoking sheesha and drinking asir aseb