There are several hotels, who also serve food.  Tonton is one of them. Near the market and the port there are several bars, but not serving food.  Mossaka is a lovely place, but they are not used to tourists.  In 2003 MSF started a sleeping sickness project in Mossaka, so there are a few white expats, but in general not many foreigners arrive in Mossaka.  it is only accessible by boat, not by road